If you are choosing an axe online it can be difficult to compare. I have many axes and wanted to share a comparison of the most popular carving axes alongside my own new design. Here are the Gransfors Bruks carving axe, the wildlife hatchet and my Robin Wood carving axe. And as a bonus I carve a quick spoon blank too.
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Fingers crossed good luck every one ☺☺☺
It would be very nice. I would carve a spoon out of willow for my new baby niece who is called willow for her christening gift .
i gotta say…looks like it’s not heavy enough. and i was real sad to hear you had this made in worse conditions than your own to have it cheaper. was it worth it?
I don’t judge you by it. I’ll always remember you for what you did for the modern craft movement as well as myself.
Daniel it is not a question of cost it is a question of nobody forging axe heads in the UK (other than a few smiths forging individual heads for over £100 head only) I am hoping that I will eventually be able to encourage someone to restart drop forging heads in the UK.
very nice, I want one.
I have a couple of these axes and use them every chance I get for carving. Weight is a matter of opinion, but I find the weight absolutely perfect for my use. I also very much appreciate the cheaper price..that’s why I could buy two…and it is ca bing sharp out of the box. I’d carry it camping except for the smalller reprofiled hatchet that already fills that spot. Excellent product and better service from Robin. Highly recommended.
Hi, is it really OK to hammer a forged axe? I thought it could lead to head loosening. Even banging wooden pegs into the ground is sometimes depicted as a no-no in some axe manufacturer’s product information, as I recall vaguely.
It’s absolutely OK to hammer on the poll with a wooden maul.
Hello,
This looks be ideal little axe,
can I ask is there a sheath with it and is it possible get slightly longer handle?
There is no sheath and there is no choice of handles
Are your carving axe’s single bevel?
Thank-you.
They are not a side axe if that is what you mean they have a bevel each side meeting in the centre They are symmetrical so cam be used by right or left handers.
How did you decide upon the design for your handle? The dramatic curve and the heavier stock? I’ve been looking for axes with more spring in the handle for I’ve got some stress injuries in my elbows. If you look at the wooden handles of older hammers, you’ll see what I mean. Yet the most popular axe handle styles now are heavy and unyielding. If you put those current axe/hatchet handles on a hammer, people would think you’re overdoing it, yet the weight of the hammer head in many cases is comparable to a hatchet. Of course, an axe can be rehung, but sometimes the eye is so large that a slender handle is impossible. I would be curious to know more about how your carving experience led to this kind of handle. Best, Lawrence
An axe and a hammer are used in very different ways. Those old hammers you talk about, which I love, are all designed to be held at the end of the handle or thereabouts and flex at the narrow point is a good thing that allows the head to bounce without transmitting shock to the hand. A carving axe is held most of the time about a third of the way down the handle or for fine work right up by the head. The handle is as much as anything a counterweight to allow the axe to pivot around the centre of gravity. Most theories are worked out however after finding what works through practical experiment and that is how I ended up with my axe. I used very many and gradually evolved to what worked best.
Looks wonderful to my simple needs of a uk bush crafter… At a decent price..
An honest tool to be used in the field.
Cheers
Chris
Derbyshire